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Chavín de Huántar It’s time to add another stop on Peru’s archeological tour. Chavín de Huántar may lack the vertigo-inducing majesty and mystery of Machu Picchu or the intriguing juxtaposition of the pre-Incan pyramid of Huaca Pucllana with urban Lima, but it has two other important traits: novelty and a dash of creepiness.
The Chavín period existed from roughly 1200 B.C. to 500 B.C. and once stretched almost along the entire coast of Peru. The spiritual center was in Chavín de Huántar in Peru's Ancash region, the site of one of the period’s most outstanding temples.
The dig has been led by Stanford University archeologist John Rick for over 18 years. Rick has been slowly peeling away the dirt covering the mysteries: a network of tunnels where he believes followers spent days underground; evidence of likely human sacrifices; and shards of delicately sculptured pottery still bearing the original paint.
Also present on the archeological site are a circular plaza and El Lanzón, a ceremonial totem that has been restored to its original condition—perhaps the best-preserved icon of a major New World culture found so far. Rick believes the Chavín people operated more like a cult than a mass religion. “These temples served as a fantastic architectural context in which manipulations of light and sound and the effects of psychoactive drugs combined to convince new converts that the priest's powers were natural and real—a cult worth the price of joining,” he explains.
But the best thing about Chavín de Huántar is that visitors can explore pre-Incan history as it is revealed. The monumental temple mounds, covered by a mudslide in 1945, are pock-marked with fresh excavations as archaeologists unearth new evidence of Chavín’s long and bizarre history. View a slideshow of Chavín de Huántar's archeological ruins. All photos courtesy of Nicolas Villaume. Back to top Piedra, Papel o Tijera The popular children’s game of Piedra, Papel o Tijera (Rock, Paper or Scissors) is a lesson in chance and luck. Venezuelan filmmaker Hernán Jabes applies the same lesson to life in the violent and unpredictable environment of Caracas in his new film of the same name. The 110-minute movie focuses on the members of two Venezuelan households—one wealthy, one poor—whose paths cross, with tragic consequences. Héctor, a pilot, lives in the wealthier eastern section of Caracas with his wife, Mariana, and son, Luis. When Hector’s son is kidnapped by Christian, a poor buhonero (informal worker) desperate to pay off his outstanding debts, the lives of both families become enmeshed in a drama that explores both the uncertainty of fate and the pressures of modern life. Although Jabes is a native of Chile, he has lived in Venezuela since he was a toddler and is no stranger to the pressure-cooker life of Venezuela’s capital. He got a break in 2009, when his project caught the attention of the Centro Nacional Autónomo de Cinematografía (CNAC), the state entity that promotes and regulates Venezuelan film, opening new sources of funding. Piedra, Papel o Tijera premiered in Venezuela on June 22, and by September nearly 210,000 people had seen the film—making it this year’s most-watched movie. And the accolades continue: the film was selected in August to represent Venezuela for “Best Foreign Language Film” at the 85th Academy Awards. “This feels like winning an Olympic medal; I am honored,” says the director, 43. Final nominations for this category will be announced in January. Watch a trailer for Piedra, Papel o Tijera below: Back to top Diwali If you happen to be in India in October or November, one cultural attraction you cannot miss is Diwali, also known as the festival of lights. The five-day event marks the start of the Hindu new year, and this year, due to the Hindu calendar, it occurs November 11–15. But Diwali celebrations can also be found outside South Asia: in the Western Hemisphere, Guyana is your best bet to experience the festivities. According to the 2002 census, 43.5 percent of the 751,000 inhabitants of this former British colony are of Indian descent—tracing their heritage to the indentured laborers who arrived in 1838 to work its sugar cane fields. Hinduism is Guyana’s largest religion, practiced by 28.4 percent of the population. Hindu mythology offers various reasons for the celebration of Diwali; generally, it symbolizes the triumph of good over evil and light over darkness. Houses are illuminated by small clay oil lamps called diyas, streets echo with the sound of firecrackers, and sweets are distributed from neighbor to neighbor. Today, Diwali is an official holiday in Guyana. In addition to the usual rituals to welcome the new year—sweeping out houses, buying new clothes and exchanging greetings—the main attraction is the large pre-Diwali motorcade. It is a procession of elaborately lit and decorated trucks and floats, atop which often sit costumed figures representing Hindu deities. The lively affair is accompanied by singers, dancers and hundreds of thousands of viewers of all ethnicities and faiths along the route. This tradition in Guyana began in 1974 and has been organized since by the Guyana Hindu Dharmic Sabha, a religious, cultural and social organization that raises the profile of Guyana's Hindu community. Vindhya Persaud, assistant general secretary of the Dharmic Sabha, says that the celebrations “bring Diwali closer to people and bring people together.” View a slideshow of Guyana's pre-Diwali motorcade. All photos courtesy of Ian Sassoon. Back to top 10 Things To Do: Oaxaca, Mexico BY GABRIEL GUZMÁN Located in southern Mexico, Oaxaca is a UNESCO World Heritage City. Its rich heritage includes Zapotec, Mixtec and Spanish cultures, and it’s also an important landmark in Mexican history, established as a colonial city in 1532. The city 
is in Oaxaca state, where former president Benito Juárez, the great 19th-century liberal reformer and statesman, 
was born and raised. When he died in 1872, the city’s official name was changed to Oaxaca de Juárez. 1. Explore the Centro Histórico. Enjoy Oaxaca’s laid-back atmosphere at the zócalo (center plaza) and andador turístico (tourist walkway), or on one of its colorful streets (pictured). The beautiful Santo Domingo Cultural Center is also located here. Admission is 57 pesos ($4.40). Closed on Mondays. 2. Savor a tlayuda. The traditional tlayuda is one of Oaxacans’ most popular dishes. Made of a large, slowly cooked corn tortilla, it can be messy but fun to eat. Try it at Las Tlayudas de Libres on Libres 212. Opens every day at 10 p.m. 3. Visit Monte Albán. Founded between 500 and 100 B.C., Monte Albán was the center of Zapotec culture in the Oaxaca Valley until A.D. 1325. Its well-preserved ruins are near the city and make an excellent day trip. At the top, you’ll get a magnificent view of the Oaxaca Valley. 4. Try some mezcal. This smoky, agave-based alcohol has its roots in Oaxaca. There are plenty of mezcalerías to choose from, but among the best are La Cucaracha (Porfirio Díaz 301A), where you can enjoy live music, and Café Central (Miguel Hidalgo 302). 5. Taste Oaxaca’s famous mole. Mole is a thick sauce made of spices, nuts, chilis, and chocolate. There are seven types: rojo, negro, amarillo, chichilo, verde, coloradito and almendrado. Some restaurants, such as Los Pacos (Abasolo 104), offer a sample of each. 6. Take a cooking class. If you want to try some of Oaxaca’s special cuisine at home, cooking classes at Casa de los Sabores (Reforma 402) will give you a tasty lesson in making regional specialties like mole and gorditas. 7. Check out nearby villages and local markets. Teotitlán del Valle is one of the best places to shop for Oaxacan textiles. For alebrijes, fantasy-inspired wooden figures, visit Arrazola. Oaxaca’s own Mercado Benito Juárez offers local products like chapulines (edible grasshoppers), chocolate, Oaxacan cheese, and local crafts. 8. Stroll through the Jardín Etnobotánico. Take a guided tour of the lovely botanical gardens just behind Santo Domingo Church to learn about the plants and cacti native to the state of Oaxaca. Tours are offered in Spanish daily, and in English on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays. 9.Take in a Lucha Libre match. Mexicans love wrestling, and Oaxacans are no exception. Arena Ray Alcántara (Lucero 100) showcases matches with amateur and professional wrestlers. Matches are held every other Sunday. 100 pesos ($7.70). 10. Enjoy La Guelaguetza. On the first two Mondays of July, this impressive festival celebrates the music, dance and costumes of the seven regions of Oaxaca. A smaller version can be seen any time of year at Hotel Camino Real (5 de Mayo 300, Centro), Fridays at 7 p.m. 365 pesos ($28.10). View a slideshow of Oaxaca. All photos courtesy of Carin Zissis. Back to top The Road to the World Cup Although the next World Cup doesn’t kick off until June 2014, the qualifying rounds are already well under way. Between June 2011 and November 2013, 203 teams representing six regional federations will vie for 31 berths in the world's biggest sports tournament. The federations vary in both qualification method and level of competition. The Confederación Sudamericana de Fútbol (South American Soccer Federation—CONMEBOL) is second only to the Union of European Football Associations (UEFA) in World Cup wins. Among the FIFA conferences, CONMEBOL also has the fewest teams (10). Since World Cup–host Brazil automatically claims a spot, only nine teams will compete in qualifiers. Every CONMEBOL squad plays against one another twice on a home-and-away basis, in a process spread out over 18 match days and two years. Ten match days have occurred through October 2012. The eleventh will take place on March 22, 2013. The four teams with most points after the 18 matches will qualify for Brazil. The fifth-place team will play its counterpart in the Asian Football Confederation (AFC) for the last berth. CONMEBOL is flush with talent. While Argentina, captained by Lionel Messi, is leading the confederation by three points, the remaining competition is showing promise. The next five squads (Ecuador, Colombia, Venezuela, Uruguay, and Chile) are within six points—the equivalent of two wins—of one another. Colombia, after failing to qualify for the 2010 World Cup, hired Argentine José Pékerman as manager earlier this year. A 4–0 dismantling of Uruguay at home, followed by a 3–1 victory against Chile in Santiago, show that Colombia, led by phenom striker Radamel Falcao, is a World Cup–worthy team. Venezuela surprised many with a best-ever fourth-place finish in the 2011 Copa América, and has given a solid performance since. Conversely, Paraguay, which made it to the quarterfinals in South Africa 2010, sits at the bottom of the CONMEBOL standings. The qualifying picture is quite different for the other soccer confederation in the hemisphere: the Confederation of North, Central American and Caribbean Association Football (CONCACAF). This confederation, unlike CONMEBOL, has a multiple-round elimination system to whittle down the many competitors: 35 contenders compete for three berths, while the fourth-place finisher plays the winner of the Oceania Football Confederation (OFC) for the last spot. The United States and Mexico have traditionally dominated CONCACAF, but the U.S. has struggled under coach Jürgen Klinsmann. Thanks to stars like forward Javier “Chicharito” Hernández, Mexico looks strong, earning a 4–2 Gold Cup win over the U.S. in 2011 and a gold medal at the 2012 London Olympics. With 12 months of qualifying and the 2013 Confederations Cup in Brazil to go, a lot is still open. The CONMEBOL and CONCACAF teams that advance into the 2014 Cup will face a formidable Brazilian squad—led by 20-year-old sensation Neymar and 21-year-old Oscar—hungry to win at home. They will also face talented squads from other FIFA confederations around the globe. One thing is sure: the road to Brazil will be paved with quality soccer—with all the excitement and drama the world has come to expect from fútbol en las Américas. Back to top From the Think Tanks Completar la Escuela: Un Derecho para Crecer, un Deber para Compartir (Completing School: A Right to Grow, a Duty to Share) is the newest study on education, its link to child development and the barriers to accessing quality education. The report points out that 22.1 million adolescents and school-age children in Latin America and the Caribbean are not enrolled in school. The publication is a component of a UNESCO-UNICEF initiative that aims to have all youth enrolled in school by 2015. The brief also finds that Indigenous, Afro-descendant and physically challenged youth face the greatest risk of educational exclusion or of a developmental lag in school. The World Economic Forum has released its latest assessment on national competitiveness among 144 countries. The Global Competitiveness Report 2012–2013 defines competitiveness as “the set of institutions, policies and factors that determine the level of productivity of a country.” While external macroeconomic variables have hindered economic growth in Latin America and the Caribbean, many key markets still improved since the 2011–2012 report. Chile is the most competitive at number 33 worldwide, with Panama (40), Brazil (48) and Mexico (53) not far behind. The GCR measures 12 “pillars” of competitiveness such as infrastructure, health and primary education, labor market efficiency, and technological readiness. In recent years, the Development, Relief, and Education for Alien Minors (DREAM) Act has become a symbol of the push for U.S. immigration reform. The Partnership for a New American Economy, the bipartisan alliance of elected officials and private-sector executives advocating for sensible U.S. immigration policy, in collaboration with the Center for American Progress, have attempted to quantify the impact of the DREAM Act on the U.S. economy. The Economic Benefits of Passing the DREAM Act concludes that passage of the DREAM Act would create 1.4 million new jobs by 2030 and generate $329 billion for the U.S. economy. The authors also argue that the roughly 2.1 million students who would benefit from the DREAM Act would earn nearly 20 percent more—in turn generating more tax revenue at the state and federal levels.